Now there are other ways to control wax moths that are beyond the budget of small beekeepers. There are giant walk in freezers that hold the temperature below 20℉ for four hours of freeze. There are sealed rooms where carbon dioxide is pumped to 90% for a day. There are of course chemicall fumigants being employed in treating wax moth, paradiclorobenzene (PDB) is a fumigant that is widely used to protect stored combs against wax moth. It is a white crystals substance that vaporizes very slowly and produces a gas that is heavier than air. Paradiclorobenzene is non-flammable and non-explosive and is safe to use but it should not be used to fumigate combs of honey that is to be used for human use.
There is Acetic acid, Flowers of Sulpher, (SO2), Naphthalene and others that render honey unfit for humans, but here we stick to the natural. Many beekeepers use the practice of top entrances, this should be examined, provided they provide screening then there will be no problem. Leaving a big hole in the inner cover, then a badly fitting roof, is just asking for trouble. Or even worse those holes drilled in the top of boxes to place a mason jar for feeding and then removing it leaving the hole unscreened is a real problem. When a cold evening comes and the bees pull down and form a cluster leaving that entrance unguarded, easy pickings for the wax moth, as they will fly in cooler conditions than bees.
When you fine extensive damage, evidenced by the white webs, it is simpler to burn and start again. In cases of minor infestations pull out any larvae you can see and clean out all webs. Freezing is a very good way of killing larvae and eggs, so storage in an outside unheated shed during the winter can be useful, or that chest freezer you have out nearly empty in the garage. Oh and chickens apparently are not the best defense or cleanup crew, but they do provide humorous entertainment. Beware of the zombie moths who apparently spawn from the exit orifice of a chicken.